Photo: Mike Killion.
Surfer and filmmaker, Jeremy Rumas retreats to the campfire after a cold but epic session on the Indiana shores of Lake Michigan. We all patiently await the release of Jeremy’s film “Hangs Upon Nothing”, ’til then check out his blog here.
MJ in his prime. 1988’s “Bad”. Dirty Diana. RIP.
Matuse Family Member, Luke Rife, making statements in and around San Diego.
El Mac elevating the discipline of aerosol art.
Haven´t gone left yet in 2012. Its not because I haven’t been surfing. I haven’t had the opportunity to go left yet. If I went left on any of the waves I caught so far this year the results would have been a face and board smashed by rocks, a blown perfect right and a confused surfer on the shoulder.
My year kicked off with a few days down under on the sweeping right points of New South Wales. I haven´t celebrated a southern hemisphere Christmas in a longtime and we were cordially invited by some friends to a family Chrissy gathering in Crescent Head. The best part about it is that it is just about the longest day of the year so instead of presents, food, a football game and bed, an Australian Christmas entails presents, surf, breakfast, surf, a big family lunch, surf, dinner, a few slabs of beer and some ridiculous aussie games. Not to mention the air and water are a heavenly 78.
A nagging knee injury kept me out of the water prior to the trip and so I was very appreciative of the cyclone that developed in the Coral Sea during our stay and delivered what a kept hearing as the best Christmas swell in a decade. Crescent and surrounding points produced waves akin to those I love in central Baja but with the comforts of a meat pie and Coopers ale waiting on shore.
We flew home soon after the new year and for me it was a very quick turn around to the dusty points of central Baja for my birthday swell (thanks Mother Ocean). I had a few properties to survey for WILDCOAST that we hope to protect but a nasty sounding truck engine kept us from delving too deep into the wilderness. Nonetheless I got a bit of work done and scored one of the more benign yet rip-able points on the coast.
The truck made it home and I caught up with the remainder of the swell. I indulged on a few sessions at OB Jetty and San Miguel until the run came to an end.
I’ve probably travelled a couple hundred miles on a surf board given the amazing point break surf I have been blessed with the past few weeks. I very much fear my first attempt at going left in 2012. Perhaps another swell will show its face in the north Pacific soon and I can delay my backside a bit longer.
Happy new year!
-Zach
Heater especiale.
The bumble bee never stood a chance against those lips.
Once again, Wes Anderson’s art direction cannot hide the fact that Bill Murray is legend.
Now everyone can pretend to be up on a band that no longer even exists.
