Nate Cintas Visits Indonesia

This excerpt is from Nate Cintas’s personal journal. Nate Cintas is the owner of Point Loma Board Room, a supporter of Matuse, and an avid surfer.

On June 23, 2007 we embarked on a trip to Indonesia. Our goal once reaching Padang, was to leave port en route to Northern Sumatra. Our vessel the Freedom II, is one of the premier charter boats in the area, and capable of cruising at 17 knots.

We found ourselves just north of the Mentawai Island chain on day 3, when we suddenly lost our starboard engine. The vibe on the boat was positive, and our group agreed to stay within a 20 mile area for the next three days.

When we arrived on the grounds, the surf was 4′ +, with side onshore winds for the first couple of days. By day three, the wind was light offshore, and the surf had jumped up to 4-6′. Little did we know we would only see 1 other boat over the next 8 days.

The captain was kind enough to take us to a grinding right hander known only to 4 boats in the world. The secret spot was a machine wave, and it broke in 12-24 inches of water. The first evening we surfed with reservations, but by day two, we were charging the wave with an understanding that the price of leaving a little DNA on the reef was worth it.

Not everyone in our group prepared for this wave, and honestly, even I never got totally comfortable with it. On June 30, our secret spot delivered itself to me in the form of a birthday gift. We surfed 6-8 foot spitting barrels for 5-6 hours all by ourselves. Some times the wave would spit 2-3 times before the take-off section. It was heavenly, but I must admit that the only reason I made it out of some of the barrels was the fear of the consequences of not making it.

I left the water that day with cuts and bruises on both feet and both hands. I wore a Matuse vest for protection, and it prevented abrasions to my back on the few barrels I did not make. The vest provided flexibility, rash prevention, and protection. I was wearing a wet suit for my first time in 7 trips to Indo., and I never even knew it.

We surfed 8 days, and the swell went from 4 foot to 8 foot, then back to 4 foot before our departure. It was an awesome trip. Thank you my little secret spot, thank you Freedom II, and thank you Matuse.

Nate Cintas